Most spray foam problems trace back to how and when it was installed, not to the material itself: the wrong type of foam, application in the wrong conditions, or people moving back in before the foam has cured and the house has aired out. The U.S. Consumer Product Safety Commission advises homeowners to discuss safety with the contractor and vacate during and after installation for at least 24 hours. A chemical smell that lingers well beyond that is not something to live with. This page covers what goes wrong, how to prevent it, and what to do if it already has.
Utah Valley Foam is an independent insulation referral service for Utah County, not a contractor. The problems below are the ones raised most often in the nearly 2,800 Reddit threads on insulation and heating we reviewed in October 2026.
The Problems Homeowners Report Most
| Problem | What it usually points to | First step |
|---|---|---|
| A chemical smell that will not go away | Foam not fully cured, an off-ratio mix, or poor ventilation during and after the job | Follow the CPSC steps below, starting with your health |
| Open cell sprayed where closed cell was agreed | The product was not written down, or not checked on the day | Compare the product literature to your contract and raise it with the installer in writing |
| Cracks, shrinking, or foam pulling away from framing | An application or product problem | Photograph it and contact the installer and the foam manufacturer |
| A roofer warns against foam on the roof deck | Foam on the underside of the deck covers it, so leaks and rot are harder to see from the attic | Get a roofer’s view before foaming a roof deck, especially an older roof |
| Breathing symptoms or skin reactions after the job | Possible sensitivity to the chemicals used | Seek medical attention, then follow the CPSC steps below |
Of the 689 spray foam threads in our sample, the most discussed, with 358 comments, was a homeowner whose contractor sprayed open cell foam under a new vaulted roof where closed cell had been agreed. Close behind, with 248 comments, was a house that still smelled of chemicals a month after the job, after both the contractor and the manufacturer said nothing was wrong. Both problems are far easier to prevent before the job than to fix after it.
How Long to Stay Out of the House
The CPSC says residents should vacate the premises for at least 24 hours, including pets, and notes that the right re-occupancy time varies with the product, the house, and whether children, older people or other sensitive individuals live there. The EPA’s archived guidance says some manufacturers recommend 24 hours after a professional two-component high pressure application, and that one-component foam from cans can take approximately 8 to 24 hours to cure. Get the re-entry time for your specific product in writing before the job starts.
The CPSC also says people with a history of skin conditions, respiratory allergies, asthma or prior isocyanate sensitization should review the product information carefully and, if necessary, consider a different insulation.
Questions to Ask Before Anyone Sprays
These are adapted from the CPSC’s consumer checklist, with two Utah additions:
- Which product, exactly? Get the brand, product name, and whether it is open cell or closed cell written on the quote, and ask for the product literature and safety data sheet.
- Where will foam go, and how thick? Each area, with its depth or R-value, should be a separate line. Our insulation quote checklist covers the rest.
- What weather is right for it? The CPSC says temperature and humidity can affect how spray foam installs, so ask when it should and should not be applied.
- How will the work area be isolated and ventilated?
- When can we move back in? In writing, for this product.
- Is the installer trained, insured and licensed? In Utah you can check a contractor’s licence on the state’s licence lookup.
- Can I call two recent customers? The CPSC recommends checking references.
If Something Has Already Gone Wrong
The CPSC’s steps, in its order:
- Seek medical attention right away if you have breathing problems or other health effects.
- File a report on SaferProducts.gov if the spray foam appears to be the source of a problem.
- Work with the contractor to find the cause, or hire an independent indoor air quality consultant.
- Contact the contractor or the foam manufacturer for help if the foam is shown to be the source.
- If that does not resolve it, contact your state consumer protection office or contractor licensing board.
Removal is a last resort. The CPSC notes there is no standard process for removing misapplied spray foam, and that disturbing it improperly, especially with heat, can create dust or hazardous materials.
The Case Against Spray Foam, Answered
The most upvoted spray foam thread in our sample, with 2,484 upvotes, was a carpenter’s warning not to let any contractor talk you into it. The objections are fair questions, and most have a clear answer:
- “It traps moisture and rots the roof.” Moisture is a design problem the code addresses directly. For unvented roofs in climate zones 5 to 8, which includes Utah County, Utah’s residential code says any air-impermeable insulation shall be a Class II vapor retarder, or have a Class II vapor retarder coating or covering in direct contact with it (section R806.5). If the quote is for open cell foam under a roof deck, ask whether it meets Class II at the planned thickness, and if not, how it will be coated.
- “You cannot see a roof leak until it is too late.” True of foam on the underside of the roof deck. If that worries you, the alternative is to air-seal and insulate the attic floor and keep the attic vented, which leaves the deck visible. Our attic insulation page compares the two.
- “Wiring and plumbing get buried.” Also true. Make any electrical or plumbing changes before the foam goes in, and photograph the open walls first.
- “It off-gasses forever.” The CPSC treats odors or symptoms that continue after the re-occupancy period as a problem to investigate, not a normal property of the material. See the steps above.
- “How do you inspect a house with foam?” If you are buying, ask the seller for the installer’s paperwork: the product, the date, and which areas were foamed.
Is Spray Foam Still Worth It?
Often, yes, when it is installed well and used where it earns its cost. Spray foam air-seals and insulates in one step, which matters most in places that are hard to seal any other way, such as rim joists, crawl space walls and roof decks. ENERGY STAR’s estimate of a 16 percent saving on heating and cooling in climate zone 5 comes from air sealing plus insulation, which other materials can also deliver. Compare the options on our spray foam vs fiberglass page.
Spray Foam Problems FAQ
Is spray foam insulation safe once it is installed?
The CPSC advises vacating during installation and for at least 24 hours after, and says re-occupancy time depends on the product, the home, and whether sensitive people live there. People with asthma, respiratory allergies, skin conditions or prior isocyanate sensitization should review the product information and may want a different insulation. Get the re-entry time for your product in writing.
How long should spray foam smell after installation?
There is no published standard time, but the CPSC says homeowners should vacate for at least 24 hours and treats odors or breathing symptoms that continue afterwards as a problem to act on: seek medical care if needed, report it on SaferProducts.gov, and work with the contractor, manufacturer or an indoor air quality consultant to find the cause.
What if the contractor sprayed the wrong type of foam?
Compare the product literature and the foam in place against what your quote says, photograph it, and raise it with the installer in writing. If that fails, the CPSC suggests contacting the manufacturer and then the state consumer protection office or contractor licensing board. Writing the product name and foam type on the quote prevents most of these disputes.
Can spray foam be removed?
It can be, but the CPSC says there is no standard process for removing misapplied spray foam, and disturbing it improperly, especially with heat, can create dust or hazardous materials. Get professional advice before anyone starts cutting it out.
Can spray foam on the roof deck cause problems?
It can if the assembly is wrong. Foam on the underside of the deck hides leaks and rot from inside the attic, and in climate zone 5 Utah’s residential code (section R806.5) requires air-impermeable insulation under an unvented roof to be a Class II vapor retarder or to have a Class II coating in contact with it. Talk to a roofer first, especially on an older roof, and ask the installer how the foam meets that rule.
Can I install spray foam myself?
The CPSC says two-component high pressure kits are professional systems for trained applicators only. Low pressure kits and cans are sold to consumers, but the CPSC says the same precautions as professional use apply, including reading the safety data sheet and using protective equipment.
Get a Quote You Can Check
If you want spray foam priced with the product, foam type and depth on every line, request a quote or call (801) 691-7136. Requests are passed to one independent insulation provider serving Utah County when one is available. Utah Valley Foam does not vet providers, so use the questions above.